Steve Heimoff, author of A Wine Journey Along the Russian River, reviews the 2019 Sutro Wine releases:
2018 Sauvignon Blanc. This is really a lovely Sauvignon Blanc. It’s very dry and crisp in mouthwatering acidity, with rich, satisfying flavors: citrus and tropical fruits, hay, gooseberry, anise and white pepper. There’s no oak at all in the winemaking, nor does the wine need it. With a honeyed finish, this is as good as California Sauvignon Blanc gets! Score: 93.
2016 Warnecke Ranch Merlot. Good, dark, saturated garnet color, indicating ripe grapes. The flavors are quite rich and satisfying, suggesting blackberries, Medjool dates, dark chocolate, herb tea, anise and sweet tobacco. Not particularly oaky. Complex and interesting, but quite tannic at this point. I’d give this well-made wine a few years in the bottle, or decant it an hour or two before drinking. Score: 92.
2016 Warnecke Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. This impenetrably dark wine is obviously super-extracted. It’s extraordinarily rich in flavor, in the modern ripe style, with masses of blackcurrants, blackberry jam and mocha flavors, made firm by a tangy minerality. The oak is in keeping with the wine’s size. The structure is very fine, with minutely ground, silky tannins. There’s a nice bite of acidity to counter the rich fruit. The finish is long and spicy. Absolutely delicious and complex now, it should hold well into the future. Textbook Alexander Valley Cab, softer than Napa but every bit as good. Score: 94.